A palace for Art

India Sketch Book 2014 panels 27,28 by Meera Rao 

The last four panels of the sketch book are filled with details from the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery and Performance center at the Jaganmohan Palace.  The performance hall has many beautiful stained glass windows. The beautiful building is unfortunately crumbling and in dire need of renovation and restoration.  

India Sketch Book 2014 panels 28,29 by Meera Rao

The arches on the many doors on the hall were also decorated with colorful paintings and sculpted relief.

The circular motif sketch is from the front facade of the building - there were about 10 motifs on each of the pillars and each was different scene.  This was the lowest one that I could see clearly :) 

India Sketch Book 2014 panel 30 by Meera Rao 

I was able to sketch only a couple of the stained glass windows before a 'Yakshagana ' performance started.  I did not sketch on the back side of the pages as the sketches had bled through to the other side on a lot of the sketches. 

Sketchbook spread out on the floor 110" x3.3" 

I tried to take a picture of the sketchbook all spread out little over nine feet long ! This was the best I could do  :)

On the Road

Sketchbook India 2014 Panels 19-22 by Meera Rao

Sketchbook India 2014 Panels 23-25 by Meera Rao

Road scenes in India are always so very fascinating. Once I started sketching I began noticing all the little details and interesting things that take place. I am attracted to unique vignettes that tell a story. I have learned not to look for perfection in my sketches but hope to capture the emotions.

The scenes get etched in my mind once I start sketching like the time I saw the horse 'checking' out the autoriksha -his competition - while his owner was chatting with the riksha driver! Or the pleasure on the face of the tripple riding motorcyclists -living dangerously with no helmets! The Mother -son pair in the back of the little truck with all their possessions exuded the excitement of moving day.  This time I was pleased I was sketching on the accordion/ Japanese album sketch book :) It was a challenge to keep the sketches connected to one another. 

I needed a couple days to finish each of the sketches- drawing one day and then coloring them the next day. Drawing and sketching in a journal like this make me explore different styles as well as ways of seeing that I have not tried before :) 

Sculpting Devotion

Sketchbook India 2014 by Meera Rao panels 5, 6, 7, June 9-10

Tulasi Katte and Ratha (Festival Car)

The trip to Mysore from Bangaluru takes around 3-4 hours. When the taxi driver discovered that I had not seen a couple of beautiful temples along the way and that I did not have to be in Mysore by a certain time, he took it upon himself to make a few stops! (We still made it to Mysore by 3pm!) I took  photographs and during the next few days filled over dozen panels of my sketch book.   

Most every Hindu home, and all temples have a special place for the tulasi (sacred basil) plant. The 'pot' that holds the plant is sometimes very simple and most often very ornate.  

Ratha is a huge chariot used during festivals to take the temple deity on procession pulled manually with ropes.  It is decorated colorfully and towers over all the devotees assembled.  Check out Google images  to get a taste of the festival excitement!  

Sketchbook India 2014 by Meera Rao panels 8, 9, 10, June 12-16

Temple premises

Sketchbook India 2014 by Meera Rao panels 11,12, 13 June 18-19

Outside the temple

Sketchbook India 2014 by Meera Rao panels 14,15,16, June 19-22

Temple gopura, Utsava Murthy

Gopura is a towering gateway, entrance to southern Indian Temple. An architectural wonder, it is ornately carved, sculpted  and decorated with stories from Mythology connected to the main deity. There is also a massive and again beautifully decorated door through which one enters the temple complex. Check here to see images from google search of the gopurams.

The main temple deity  is never moved - so, for festivals special  'Utsava Murthy' are created by sculptors. After divine spirits are invoked in them, they are carried in a procession, either on the Ratha Festival cart, a palanquin or sometimes on the head of one of the priests. 

Sketchbook India 2014 by Meera Rao panels 15-18, June 22-27

garuda utsava murthy and stone wall in the back

Most of the temples are all ancient - several centuries old, some better maintained than others. It is  very common to find beautiful carvings, statues and walls in heaps covered in dirt around the premises.  Its heartening see that the citizens are beginning to understand the value of the art that surrounds them and efforts are being done to restore them.  

I think the beauty of the temples is a testimony to the creativity of the many anonymous  artists that sculpted and built them to make the ephemeral quality of spirituality and devotion more concrete, grand and immediate.  To visit a temple, to be surrounded by the beautiful statues, to take in the burning lamps, sounds of conchs, bells and invocation, the scents of the flowers, incense is a memorable and stirring experience. It did not matter that there were worldly business happening too. I really am awed by the incredible power of art that has lasted centuries! 

A Long Journey

View From Balcony Sketchbook India 2014 June 4-7 by Meera Rao

View From Balcony Sketchbook India 2014 June 6-8 by Meera Rao

"Then India, everyone has his own idea of India"

-Milton Hays.

I have been here in India almost two months and yesterday I did the last sketch in the small Moleskine Japanese accordion style sketchbook.  I have finally figured out (for now!) the quirks of the computer and the programs here and been able to successfully post the first two photos from my sketchhbook :) 

First few sketches in a new book are always tentative in nature as I am learning what will work best. On the opening page (which I forgot to photograph) I tried out color pencils, watercolors and Faber-Castell Pitt basic color  brushpens. I mainly used Prismacolor Verithin color pencils, Prismacolor fine line marker pens and micron pen on these four pages. The hard lead color pencils are good to sketch with but difficult to color and shade on the slick beige Moleskine paper. I may build color with my regular Prismacolor soft pencils once I get back home! The background washes are watercolor (Koi watercolor field kit) and I am yet to master using them on this paper! The accordion style sketchbook gave me freedom to sketch wide and an opportunity to link these different sketches.  The idea was to have continuity though here I may be only partially successful as I don't plan ahead of time and am not sure what my next day's sketch will be! I sketched everyday but often took a couple of days to complete a panel - so it has taken me almost two months to finish 30 panels in the book that opens into one long 5.5" x 105" page  :) 

About the sketches: As the title indicates its the view from second floor balcony. I was excited to see the papaya tree top laden with fruits of various sizes right by the balcony, the collection of little lamps, the electric pole with its wires and a branch of "Kadam" /Adina Corifolia tree sporting a badminton ball like composite flower mass.

Today I will start using the large Moleskine Japanese album sketchbook  (5x8" when folded). It has 48 accordion pages. If anyone reading this has suggestions, constructive criticism and helpful hints on using these sketchbooks please feel free to pass it on in the comments section :)

Everyday is a Celebration

2013 India Sketch Journal page 39 by Meera Rao 

"There are exactly as many special occasions in life as we choose to celebrate"

~ Robert Brault~ 

A small celebration as I post the last page of my 2013 India sketch journal. It was my second year of  doing the sketch book. I am amazed and tickled to see over 200 sketches of everyday scenes and incidences in the two years.  I hope some of them will end up as full paintings soon. The biggest lesson I learned is to just plunge in and draw rather than try for that perfect sketch. As I have mentioned before, the best thing I discovered is looking at everyday things with new sketching eyes as I look for ideas. I became adept at squeezing sketching time when I was in India.  Now to make that happen everyday the rest of the year ! 

2013 India Sketch Journal Aug 23 by Meera Rao

The wedding venues are usually a riot of colors elaborately decorated with fresh flowers and foliage. The creative and labor intensive designs are often awe inspiring - sometimes bordering on gaudy. I definitely did not do justice in design or perspective when I sketched this one and as I was finishing it by memory, my skills lagged behind :) 

2013 India Sketch Journal Aug 24 by Meera Rao

Basava - decorated bullocks and his master go house to house asking for alms in -between farming seasons. The bullock's bells and the woodwind instrument the master uses signals their arrival at the doorsteps.  Rice, money or old silk sarees are donated by most the householders.  Sometimes I think this has become a way of taking advantage of the sentiments towards holy cattle and make quick bucks - especially when I see the master curse when he is asked to just move on! The animals though, are decorated beautifully and it is a pleasure to look at the peaceful majestic beasts. 

Reading and Riding

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 20 by Meera Rao 

Drivers, maids, and gardeners are still somewhat affordable as household help by most middle class families in India.  Other than drivers, 'the help' usually work for multiple families. Drivers though chauffeur only one employer and end up spending a lot of time in the car waiting for instructions on the next pick up or drop off. They can be seen either chatting with other drivers, napping or most often reading in the cars while also making sure the car is safe and well guarded. I saw this driver whiling away his time reading in a car parked in the shade on a balmy afternoon making the most of the circumstance.  Reading the paper is still the most favorite activity even though smart phones are slowly displacing it! 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 21 by Meera Rao 

When that ladder just has to be transported -- this pair found a creative way to handle the job :) During my outings, I delighted in noting all the things people would ferry around in a motorcycle, auto rickshaw, a bicycle or any other vehicle and was always surprised by the variety !

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page 38 by Meera Rao 

Women's Work

India sketch journal 2013 page 37 by Meera Rao 

I read just yesterday in the Indian newspaper  The Hindu: "On her arrival in India recently, the words of Gloria Steinem, American feminist and leader of the women’s liberation movement, sounded like bells tolling for all women in today’s modern Indian society. “I came [to India] and what was here a half-a-century ago is still here… and yet there is everything else.”   So true! India has come a long way yet there still a long way to go. 

I am always amazed how the old and new live side by side and these sketches give a glimpse of the hard work the women continue to do. But I also see a new confidence in the women too. I sense it the the neat, beautiful ways most dress in the colorful sarees, salwars, or pants and t-shirts, with fresh fragrant flowers in the hair and the purposeful strides. They do what they have to do and more often than not with a big smile too! I see that their lives are never easy but they go on day after and day.

India sketch Journal 2013 Aug 19 by Meera Rao

As this sketch shows, a woman's work is never done! - I saw this lady often on her way home at dusk - I am sure after a full day's work - carrying a load on her head and a bag on her shoulders. 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 18 by Meera Rao

She was at the corner of the street almost every day doing the ironing for whoever dropped off a load of bundled clothes. She used hot coals in a heavy iron to press the clothes. She was very pleased when I stopped to chat with her and take her photograph. At the end of my stay I usually make it a point to make  copies of the photographs for most of them or show my sketches. Their reaction is always so rewarding! 

It is charming to see the old ways but I do hope we will soon see the status and lives of the women improve not just in India but all around globe. 

Transformations

India sketch Journal 2013 Page 36 by Meera Rao 

India sketch Journal 2013 Aug 16 by Meera Rao 

India sketch Journal 2013 Aug 17 by Meera Rao 

"The journey between what you once were and who you are now becoming is where the dance of life really takes place.

Barbara Deangelis"

I wondered long and hard as to if there was even a link between these two sketches on the same page and then suddenly I knew -- transformation :) 

Comfort In Rituals

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 14 by Meera Rao

Any event usually starts with a prayer to Lord Ganesha -the god who is the remover of all obstacles. This plate with clarified butter - ghee, and the special spoon was used in a ceremony, Homa, asking for blessings- at the start of the festivities, about a week before my niece's wedding. All the rituals are filled of symbolism and are beautiful --even though in this day and age they seem long! But it forces one to stop and give thanks as well as contemplate our role in the Universe. 

I loved the patterns, reflections in the plate, shapes and the colors and had to sketch it. I wish I could have captured the sound of the melodious chanting of the prayers too.

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 15 by Meera Rao

August 15 is India's Independence day and Jan 26 is Republic day when you see Indian flags flying everywhere.  Here, an autoriksha driver is attaching the  flag to his vehicle to show his patriotism.  The already colorful vehicles decorated with the tricolor flags are sight to behold. 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page 35 by Meera Rao

Grace Under Pressure

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 12 by Meera Rao 

Speedy delivery by motorcycle of various things is nothing out of the ordinary  in India. I came upon this fellow with bags of flowers hanging off the motorcycle handle bars. The motorcycles weave through the heavy traffic and guarantee dropping off  of parcels faster than in a car or van! I saw his bike with flowers parked by the road and started taking a few pics when he returned from his delivery and posed for me for a quick second. He did have an helmet which he wore soon after and then drove off to the next stop. 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 13 by Meera Rao 

Some days I have time only for a simple sketch -- but then, here it is the trusty pressure cooker - the most important equipment in a household in India! I used one everyday  for cooking - it is an art and a science to master!  At least three pots are stacked inside each cooker with dal/lentil/bean in one, rice in the second and a vegetable or two in the third :) This  saves time, cooking gas (which is very expensive) and is super efficient.  These come in many brands, sizes  and varieties. I had to constantly consult my Mom and sisters-in-law over the phone on the finer points of using a pressure cooker - so I would not end up with either mush or under-cooked food! I really appreciated the cooker when I could not use it for a day - somehow I had miscalculated the amount of water/time needed and the valve blew due to lack of liquid.  But no worries, just down the street, in a tiny tiny shop, it was fixed in no time at all :) 

Here is a short history lesson on pressure cooker :" In 1679, the French mathematician and physicist Denis Papin invented the first pressure cooker or steam digester as he called it. The story is whilst he was presenting his new steam digester to the Royal Society it exploded, leading him to invent the safety valve. Three years later he represented it to the Royal society and gained positive reviews.

The pressure cooker title was first seen in print in 1915. In 1927, the first pressure cookers were sold in Germany and in 1939 the world’s first commercial pressure cooker made by National Presto Industries was exhibited at the New York World’s Fair.

In these early days, there are accounts of people thinking pressure cookers were the results of witchcraft because of their continued hissing."

In my home in US I now have a electric pressure cooker with a timer which I absolutely love, along with a much used stove top cooker that I have had for over three decades. 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page34 by Meera Rao 

Stacks of Creativity

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page 33 by Meera Rao 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 11 by Meera Rao 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 10 by Meera Rao 

As always, I am surprised how even if I have paid no attention to have a theme for each page when I sketched them in India earlier in the summer, as I start blogging about a page, I see the connection very clearly!!!

It never amazes me to see the many innovative ways things are stacked - like the bright blue rain water harvest barrels being transported here in a little tempo or the white eggs in colorful crates at the local provisions store. I love the designs and shapes I see in the ingenious solutions people come up with - sometimes even defying common sense and gravity ;)

Weaving a Way of Life

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 4 by Meera Rao

India Sketch Journal 2013 Aug 5 by Meera Rao

On one of my walks in the city, I came upon this amazing set up of a weaving stand right by the road side in front of a closed store. There was a ditch right there and a couple of bamboo poles were laid across to cross it.  There were bamboo ladders and poles tied around to help with the weaving as the screen/mat that was being woven got bigger! There was even a bright blue tarp for shade. The stones as weights on the weaving 'loom' are quite simple and innovative as well.  This link shows that the technique is an ancient one dating to BC!  I was so taken by the whole scene that I decided to devote two days of sketching and give the loom part with the stones its own little sketch :) 

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page 30by Meera Rao

“A weaver who has to direct and to interweave a great many little threads has no time to philosophize about it, rather, he is so absorbed in his work that he doesn't think, he acts: and it's nothing he can explain, he just feels how things should go.”

 Vincent van Gogh

Only Different Kinds of Good Weather

India Sketch Journal Page 29 by Meera Rao 

Sunshine is delicious, rain is refreshing, 

wind braces us up, 

snow is exhilarating; 

there is really no such thing as bad weather, 

only different kinds of good weather.

John Ruskin

India Sketch Journal Aug 3 by Meera Rao 

The 'windy month' brings out the kites and kids.  The stores stock colorful kites of various sizes. A favorite after school activity for some is making their own kites. Regardless, many spend hours trying to launch their kites- inexperienced as they are-  in hopes of seeing their homemade or store bought kites fly high in the sky. 

India Sketch Journal Aug 2 by Meera Rao 

As the rains continue, and the temperatures dip, the blanket peddlers roam the streets.  I had to peek out of the balcony to figure out what their loud calls were for and what is it that was being sold now! I do appreciate that even now blankets, vegetables, household items, toys are sold by peddlers roaming the street --it is always nice to have the market come to you ! 

For us wind, rain etc are just different kinds of weather but check out this TED talk video on Art made of Storms by Nathalie Miebach   - She  "takes weather data from massive storms and turns it into complex sculptures that embody the forces of nature and time." The talk opens with a sculpture  and musical scores.  It is fascinating to see and hear her explain how science, art and music intersect creatively for her. “Weather is an amalgam of systems that is inherently invisible to most of us, so I use sculpture and music to make it, not just visible, but also tactile and audible.”

Make Mine Decalf

India Sketch Journal 2013 July 29 by Meera Rao 

I always debate whether to add to the stereotype vision of India about 'cows on the street' every time I decide to sketch a cattle or two (actually five out of 78 sketches this year and five out of 124 in last year's journal!). Unlike in western countries the roads are happily shared by different kinds of vehicles, pedestrians, and various animals. This is especially true in the old part of Maisuru where many households still have cows - except they let those cows loose to graze around the neighborhood. Mostly the cows are very calm and mind their own business but every now and then when the streets get busy and there is not much room to share, I get very nervous - be it an autoriksha, bus or a cow coming the opposite way but on the same side of the road as me !!!

India Sketch Journal 2013 July 30 by Meera Rao 

This beautifully battered brass coffee filter pot in a coffee shop at one of the modern malls was almost as tall as me. Coffee powder is packed into the top half of the pot with a filter in the middle. When boiling water is poured over it, thick coffee 'decoction' slowly drips to the bottom part. Add  a couple of tablespoons of this decoction to boiling hot milk, mix in sugar, pour with pizzazz into tiny stainless steel tumblers making sure there is lot of foam on top and you have delicious 'mysore coffee' to savor. Check here for a sketch of steaming cup of Indian filter coffee from my Art House Library Sketchbook Project and here from my India Sketch journal 2013 to know more about coffee history and culture of southern India. 

Here is a look at the page from my sketch book journal:

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page 27 by Meera Rao 

Tell Me What you Eat.....

India Sketch Journal 2013 Page 26 By Meera Rao

"Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are."

~Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, The Physiology of Taste, 1825

French gourmet & lawyer (1755 - 1826)

India Sketch Journal 2013 July 27 by Meera Rao

These little fluffy chicks were definitely very new to the world, still wobbly on their legs when I saw them by the roadside.  Mother hen was doing her job well keeping a watchful eye over them.  I enjoyed watching them instinctively scratch the earth looking for something to eat. 

India Sketch Journal 2013 July 28 by Meera Rao

As mangoes start getting scarce and price goes up, the fruit lovers all have a tough time deciding how many to buy and how much to pay! There is also the fact staring right at you that these may be the last of the mangoes until next season and no one wants to say good bye to those fruits yet!  This is where there is huge argument about need and want :)

Speaking of food and art, I am excited that next month while visiting Chicago, I will be able to see Chicago Art Institute exhibit "Art and Appetite: American Painting, Culture, and Cuisine"  You can check  here for the link from the  Art Institute and  here from the Chicage Sun Times for a preview. When food is such a big part of our lives, it is no surprise that it is a favorite subject for artists, writers and all others as well! 

My Bounty is Boundless

India Sketch Journal Page 25 by Meera Rao 

 "My bounty is as boundless as the sea, my love as deep. The more I give to thee, the more I have for both are infinite."

Shakespeare~ Romeo and Juliet Act 11 scene ii

India Sketch Journal July 26 by Meera Rao

India sketch Journal Page 25 by Meera Rao

Is that cheesy stretch that I chose to quote the balcony scene for this page ?  I was merely trying to tie the two sketches  together :)

There is Only Opportunity

India Sketch Journal 2013 July 23 by Meera Rao

The man who can smile at his breaks and grab his chances gets on.

Samuel Goldwyn

I was impressed to see the entrepreneurship of this man --he had himself a bicycle tire patching business with only a few inner tubes hung on a tree trunk, some simple tools spread on a sheet under a tree!  And of course, he was busy with his little cell phone while waiting for customers.  Every time I went past his spot on the sidewalk I hoped he had enough people stopping by so he could earn enough! 

India Sketch Journal 2013 July 24 by Meera Rao

She may be living in a shack by the roadside, selling pots that she and her family members crafted right there- but she had a place to sit comfortably - a two seat bench discarded from some automobile and again a cell phone to keep her busy while she waited for customers.  What I also noticed is that her surroundings were spic and span, and the recycled materials used on the tent were very neatly assembled and tied together.  I admired the relentless resourcefulness!